Riding with Mr Pink

by Future

We were ready for a decent ride now. Having done a small ride in Sapa on a Honda 110 we were keen for a big bike. Ready to prove that I can ride in the sheer craziness that is traffic in Hanoi, home to six million bikes/scooters. Ready to ride south from Hanoi to Cuc Phoung National Park, a round trip of about 300kms. Our touring bike, a Yamaha YBR125 was waiting for us at Flamingo Travel in Hanoi. Yep, we had an extra 15cc to propel two big westerners along now. The power of this machine would be awesome compared to the Honda 110. Flamingo specialise in guided bike tours, bike hire and any other travel arrangements you can think of in Vietnam or neighbouring countries.

We wished to see the National Park with its Primate Rescue Centre and to see the 1000 year old tree.

Behold the awesome power of the Yamaha YBR125

We also booked a guide to ride with us for the two day trip. He could get us out of the madness that is the road system in Hanoi, plus he has been to Cuc Phoung before so he knows the way. The GPS on my phone could not pick up any satellites, so we needed the guide badly. We didn't want to spend five years trying to leave the city.

Mr Pink, as he is known in English, has been a bike guide for Flamingo Travel for seven years now. He is a very good rider, as I was to find out. Riding with him I felt as if we had been riding mates for years. His English was very good. He had a great sense of humour and a great knowledge of his country.

After doing the paperwork, swallowing very hard as I signed that if I wrote off the bike off I would pay $3000 USD we set off to the garage with all the bikes. There awaiting us was our mighty steed. I was going to rent a 250 Minsk - an evil Russian-made two stroke as I found out in Sapa when I tried to ride one there. They are smelly and gutless wonders. Yet you see a few buzzing around Vietnam with happy owners. But I wanted something that would not break down every few kilometres.

Mr Pink had selected an old XR250. He was going to take a Minsk but decided against as his leg would get covered in two stroke oil, he said. As our bike was so small we strapped our pack onto the XR and headed out for the first time in the maelstrom that is the traffic in Vietnam. You don't worry about what is behind you, you just watch 45 degrees either side of you and ahead. You keep hitting the horn when you get close to another vehicle. And close you get. So much so that you had better be used to lane splitting traffic in your own country as this will help you handle the traffic in Hanoi. Horn blowing is a language on its own. It tells others that you are behind them, you are close to them, get a move on, I want that space on the road and many other things I have not yet translated.

Mr Pink's Selection: the old XR250

First stop was for fuel for both bikes. The trip agreement with Flamingo was that I pay for the hire of our bike, fuel for both bikes, all accommodation and food for Jan and Mr Pink and me.

First fuel stop, and Future forgets all his centrestand lessons

Back into the never ending stream of bikes as we made our way south and out of this huge city. My thumb was sore from pressing the horn button so much.

In Vietnam the scooter/bike is the carry all vehicle. From the full family, to your pigs or chickens, to things you need to sell or buy.

The family that rides together...

Vietnamese serial killers don't need vans. They have monitor boxes.

Where does a man go with ten slabs of Heinekin and eighteen large packs of toilet paper?

Vietnamese flowers are huge. It takes four men and a block and tackle to get them into these vases.