FLINDERS RANGES BIKE TOUR EASTER 2009 - PART 1

by Chopper Bob and Loris

We had decide to depart Adelaide on Thursday afternoon to escape the Easter traffic fighting to be first to leave the city, but it was after 1500 before we were able to roll. Even at that early hour the roads were clogged (by Adelaide standards) and it took a good hour to leave the suburbs behind.

We stayed clear of Pt Wakefield road with all the associated traffic snarls and ever present police presence and travelled north via Two Wells, Mallala, Balaklava and into the Clare Valley at Auburn where it was a quick jaunt to Leasingham and our overnight stop.

If you have never been to the Clare Valley before it is well worth a visit. Fantastic wineries which in my opinion produce the best shiraz in Australia. You can literally taste the rich Clare Valley soil in these excellent wines. There are great little pubs at places like Auburn, Watervale and Seven Hills where you can walk in to a front bar and immediately strike up a conversation with a complete stranger, and come dinner time you can retire to the dining room out the back for a good old-fashioned pub meal.

The next day was Good Friday. Pubs are closed in Australia on Good Friday, so we made sure there was a bottle of bourbon packed into the rear bag. I have been caught out before on Good Friday and gone without which is a pain after riding all day.

Next morning we stayed clear of the main roads and rode north via Orooroo, Carrieton, Cradock and on to Hawker for a fuel stop and grabbed some lunch to consume up the road a bit where there were less people. We lunched under the imposing Elder Range with the closer Arkaba hills in the foreground.

The mighty GS at the Elders Range lunch stop

Onward to Wilpena Pound, which is a favourite camping spot for families because these days it can be reached without leaving the bitumen. Subsequently, a quick drink and we were out of there, leaving all the little darlings and their frazzled parents to their weekend in the country.

The road from Wilpena to Blinman is a cracker. It is 63 km of which 40 km are bitumen. It has a grippy surface and winds it's way around the numerous hills dipping down through picturesque gum lined creeks. This is a true rider's road and rewards the rider with a fantastic, scenic, challenging ride. It was superb on the Beema but sports bike riders would love it and Hayabusa riders would have their hearts in their mouths.

On to the last 20 km of good dirt and into Blinman. I didn't bother changing the tyre pressures for this 20 km so the Beema squirmed around a bit, but fourth gear and about 80 km/h saw us safely at Blinman. I run 40 psi rear and 38 psi front when travelling on the bitumen, but that is too high for dirt riding so I decrease the pressures by 10 psi, which settles the bike down and gives a more stable ride.

It soon became obvious that we were not the only visitors in town as there was a conglomeration of Land Rovers, but they turned out to be a friendly bunch who took a great deal of interest in our bike. We spent some time with these enthusiasts, even joining them for their entertainment on the Saturday night.

Three British cars in a row with their bonnets up...

We dined at the pub that night, but so did a hundred other folk, so it took an hour for our meal to arrive. We were forced to drink until then. There were, however, many friendly people to talk to so the time passed quickly.

I had organized a cabin to stay in a couple of months previously, but had no idea what to expect. What we found made us smile. A near new, comfortable, fully self contained, 2 bedroom unit, furnished from Ikea. It was unexpected and first class and all for $120 per night. A bargain considering the locale and time of year.

Next morning the Land Rovers were all lined up in the main street for the judging of their vehicles, so tongue in cheek, we slotted the Beema in between a couple of these venerable steeds. They loved it and many photos of the Beema were taken for posterity.

Now it was time for some serious dirt riding. With tyre pressures adjusted we set off to the north of Blinman and travelled through Glass Gorge. The road surface was a bit grotty in places and required picking our way along in 1st and 2nd gear. No problem, we were here for the ride and time meant little.

The BM in Glass Gorge

After Glass Gorge we rode through Parachilna Gorge and stopped at Angorichna Village for a drink before riding back through Parachilna Gorge. We stopped for a break at the Prairie pub. They have a wonderful menu here all based around bush tucker. You can order kangaroo, emu or camel and for dessert, quondong crumble. Unfortunately there were many screaming kids at the pub so after a quick beer it was back on the bike, about 15 km down the bitumen before turning back on to the dirt and riding through Brachina Gorge where we stopped in a secluded spot for lunch. What a beautiful spot is was, with towering cliffs standing guard over gum tree lined, dry creek beds.

Brachina Gorge where we stopped in a secluded spot for lunch

After lunch we continued through the rest of Brachina Gorge where we turned right and rode through Bunyeroo Gorge. What a superb ride. A different panorama around each corner with magnificent towering blue mountains in the background and a windy, slow going dirt track to follow. We stopped at a couple of lookouts and were rewarded with breathtaking scenery.

Breathtaking scenery at Bunyeroo Gorge